Thursday, 13 September 2012
Wednesday, 12 September 2012
Ajanta Ellora, Maharashtra
April 2012
1000 KMs over 4 days through
Maharashtra
Mumbai to Devlali 180Km
Devlali to Ajanta caves 300Km
Ajanta to Aurangabad 100Km
Aurangabad to Ellora caves 50Km
Ellora caves to Devlali 200Km
Devlali to Mumbai 180Km
I drove my Honda Jazz which gave a pretty good mileage of
13-14km/l. Interestingly we did not see any other Jazz on the whole journey!The
roads for more than 95% of the time were just fabulous and more in particularly
in the i) Shahpur - Nasik and ii) Malegaon - Dhule stretches were awesome and
you could easily drive at 120-140kmph but you at had to shell out Rs80 and
Rs100 as toll!
Most of the other roads were state highways where 100kmph
was the maximum speed you could touch and in large stretches were just about
enough for 2 cars to squeeze through. But they offered a real glimpse of the
simple rural life. There was no toll on these roads and many times we were
lonely on these roads. We passed by
caravans of bullock carts carrying usually sugarcane and also women and
children. A few times we just had the setting sun and a vast expanse of clear
landscape with nothing
but small brown coloured mountains and short trees, something so simple yet
rare to find in the concrete filled Mumbai.
It took us 5 1/2 hours of continuous driving barring a
lunch break at a garden restaurant (Rs220) to reach Ajanta caves. We reached
just in time at 4:15 to see the main caves which close at 5:30.
On this long journey we paid the highest toll for an
effortless ride through a mountain pass. We passed through onion fields and
even bought a 10KG sack for Rs50. A 20KG sack was available for Rs70! All of
this was because we were unaware that the price of onions in Mumbai had fallen
from Rs40 to Rs16/KG.
On this route we also passed through fields growing cotton and trucks laden
with the white and wooly stuff.
Ajanta:
At Ajanta parking cost Rs45 and it costs Rs20 for the 4Km
bus ride and Rs25 for the entrance to the caves which are maintained by the
Archeological Survey of India (ASI). The caves (26 in all) are majestic and
speak richly about the grandeur of the historic traditions of India.
The caretaker for each cave also serves a guide, though not
so great but enough for the time we had.
The paintings are quite elaborate, though quite worn out at
some places, they depict the life and times of Gautama Buddha.
More than the elaborate caves it is the nature of
excavation and the sheer labour in the harsh terrain is a real wonder. You
will also spot the langoor and its massive tail jumping all around!
It took us 2-1/2 hours to reach Aurangabad. We stayed at
the Lemon Tree (Rs5400/night). Had buffet dinner (Rs600/head) and a nice long
sleep.
We left for Ellora at 2 and the first thing we had to do
was to full our tank which was completely drained. Interestingly 2 BPCL pumps
we came across
had no stock. Also the city pumps appeared to be more than busy with the biker
and auto-rickshaws in queue who generally don't fill more than Rs50-100bucks of
fuel. We ended up shelling out Rs2500 for a tank-full.
We reached Ellora by 330 after lunch at a garden restaurant
(Rs560) we overestimated our appetite by a huge margin!
On the way to Ellora, you can't miss the Daulatabad Fort
standing lonely atop a small hillock and the tomb of Aurangzeb, which we gave
miss.
Ellora:
After paying for parking Rs20 and entrance of Rs20 we
headed straight to the Jaina group of caves numbered 30-34.
The guard at cave 32 for Rs100 was more than happy to show us around the caves.
The Jaina group of caves were the youngest and were carved
out of solid rock. A lot of the statues were worn out and broken and hence not
to be worshipped according to Jain tradition. A large number of statues were of
Lord Mahavir, Parshvanath and surprisingly Bahubali. A few ceilings still had
remains of paintings which once adorned the walls.
Cave 29 and 16 devoted to Shiva are simply stunning. The
grandeur and and might of the Rashtrakuta kings is displayed in full glory.The
gigantic size and scale of the Kailas temple, the largest monolithic rock
structure in the world is breath-taking and was built by generations over 200
years!
We also visited a Jain Gurukul at Ellora and the
Parshvanath temple in the premises and were happy to donate Rs2000 for a
breakfast for 200 students studying there.
The journey from Ellora to Nasik had some of the
breath-taking views of the beautiful setting sun and the dry parched brown
landscape. The first stretch of the journey was slow as the roads were narrow
and overtaking was also time consuming.
However, our final leg was a narrow escape. We took the NH3 which allowed us to
hit 120KMPh smoothly even at night. But just as the toll road ended (Rs40)
several incomplete patches for a new toll road meant a lot of confusion and
created a huge traffic jam and required a good deal of manoeuvring and Jugaad
to get around. For a moment it reminded of a massive jam i'd read about in
China that took 2 days to clear. We abandoned our plans to have dinner at Taj
Nasik and settled for Swad - Veg Restaurant at Nasik Road (Rs190) to be home at
Lamb Rd. Devlali, by 10.15.
We had breakfast at Health Care Centre (HCC) at Lamb road
(Rs197). We had rose water, bael juice, amla shot, veg sandwich, potato stuff
sandwich, bread-butter and moong chaat. HCC has been in operation ever since
I've known Deolali and serves the best fruit juices and sandwiches in the area
and has an exotic variety. The journey back home which started at 11.45 was
over at 2.20. All thanks to the toll roads which have cut the journey time by
more than an hour.
All through our journey we had google maps by our side
giving directions and also giving choices of routes to choose from.
Relaxo
Glancing through the FY12 annual report:
>>>Started in 1976 now India's largest footwear company based on units produced
>>>7 plants, 10 brands, 8000+ emps
>>>149 exclusive outlets, 25 more in FY13
>>>92.46mn pairs sold, 11% ebitda margin - Rs952.6mn
>>>To start a new unit this year
>>>There are just 2,552 shareholders!
>>>1.2mn shares of Rs5 paid up.
======
Assam, North-East India
Apr May 2012
Going to the
North-East always fills my mind with fertility. The abundant, overflowing,
lush-green landscape, is unlike anything you can see in most other parts of
India which is essentially in most parts semi-dry scrubland. Assam is divided
right in the middle by the mighty Brahmaputra which in many places feels like a
fast running lake.
As we travelled to
Balipara, just north of Tezpur, we took the Saraighat bridge and our first
break at a dhabha about 30mins after we crossed the bridge. The Saraighat
bridge though not very wide and can just accommodate two lanes, one to come and
one to go, has a train line running below the roadline! On searching wikipedia,
we discovered that it was opened in 1962 and it cost Rs10cr to built. The dhaba
was quite a surprise and for somebody from the western fringe of India, the
dramatic transformation of peoples faces to Mongoloid features of various types
keeps your eyes gazing and reminds you of the amazing varieties of ethnicities
that India has in store.
By evening we
reached Wild Mahseer (WM), which is a nice resort made up of 5 bungalows in the
Balipara division of the Addabarie Tea Estate of McLeod Russell Ltd. At the
last leg of the journey from Tezpur to WM, the presence of the Indian army is
quite ubiquitous. You can spot CRPFs etc, army trucks, jeeps and also uniformed
men moving about.
Nameri
Morning after
breakfast we headed to Nameri where we had our first experience at water
rafting. Though just 25KM, it took us
more than 11/2 hours to reach near the Arunachal border. The road are filled
with potholes and can be a bit risky. This same road goes to Bomdilla and
Tawang in Arunachal Pradesh. The poor
state of infrastructure, one wonders is India really serious about holding on
to these lands gifted by the British Empire (views may differ). On our way downstream along-side the Nameri
National park which has 11 tigers, we were accompanied by two men from the
Mishing tribe. Mishing is a tribe which has their own Mishing language and
number about a half a million people and have a roman script and are spread
over several districts in Assam. One apparent visible trait was their
relatively fair skin and mongoloid features.
Visit to Mishing
village
By the evening, we
decided to visit a Mishing village, which wasn't much primitive as we expected.
The house we visited, was a well laid out bricked and well plastered bungalow.
The house lady wore an elegant sari and showed us shawls and other stuff they
weave. On checking out around their house, they grow stuff like vanila, pepper,
cinnamon, haldi etc., and also owned a brick factory at the edge of the
village.
Dolphin viewing
It comes as a
surprise that there would be any Dolphins in land-locked Assam. But there are
246 dolphins in the Brahmaputra. After an hour long ride back towards Tezpur we
took a wooden boat run on a diesel powered antique engine. Our journey upstream
east on the swelling Brahmaputra. It took us more than an hour travelling along
the picturesque river bank that we managed to track the elusive and shy
dolphin. We managed to get only a few glimpses of the dark greyish dolphin and
it required a lot of patience. The Dolphin jumps were so quick that it was
futile even to attempt to capture them on your camera. The journey back from
where we started took us only 20mins, the downstream current right from the
middle was quite swift and the water in the river is quite overwhelming. It was
getting late in the afternoon and we thought of breaking for lunch at 'Samaroh
restaurant' just the point at which took a short detour towards the river. The
hotel was quite interesting and was built on bamboo stilts and had about 6-7
tents for families to share an exclusive moment. But we decided to give it a
miss. It had 'pigeon' on its menu.
Tortoise Temple
The tortoise temple
was actually a Siva temple which had a pond in its backyard with quite a few
tortoises who aren't willing to show their faces unless you are willing offer
them something to eat. We were told that the main attraction 'Mohan' is now
dead and was a large 100 year old tortoise and would come out only if called by
the temple pujari.
Tea Factory visit
The Addabarie tea
factory had just started on the day we visited the factory. The process is
quite simple compared to the metal factories that i've been used to visiting.
In simple terms its just a drying process involving removal of moisture. Tea
pluckers are given a target to pluck 21KGs in a day. The season starts from May
and ends in December. This year owing to drought like conditions the factory
has started late. About 960mnkgs of tea is produced in India of which Mcleod
Russel is the largest producer (8% share) and largely sells to the likes of
HUL, Tata Global etc. It takes 3-4 years for the plants to start giving leaves.
Goodricke is another large producer and has about 25000 acres under cultivation
to produce 2.6crKGs.
Back home through
the south bank
We took the road
back from the south bank road via Nagaon. Baring a few stretches, this is a
excellent 4 lane highway where one can touch speeds of 120-140KMph.
Visit to the
Guwahati Museum
The Guwahati Museum
cost Rs5 for entry. The ground floor has a collection of sculptures, coins,
garments etc. The upper floors have model villages depicting the lifestyles of
the tribals of Assam. One has to keep low expectations for this place, but the
collection of sculptures is quite interesting and varied.
Assam Tribune
Did manage to glance
through the Assam Tribune, the largest circulated english daily in the
North-East which publishes from Guwahati and Dibrugarh. The first page
headlines spoke about perception issues of Indian's towards the North-East in
general.
The perception of
poor safety of travels within the state is coloured by years reinforcement of
beliefs and hundreds of anecdotal evidences. But for a traveller to these lands
who wish to savour natural beauty, meet humble and hospitable people, the
North-East may be among the last frontiers. You not see any of the hundreds and
thousands of hoarding polluting the landscapes elsewhere. You will not see
highways clogged with trucks. You will not see beggars. You will not see local
tourists haggling for the last penny. You will hear the sounds of birds. You
will see magical red tilaks worn by temple-going women in white saris. You will
see Namgarhs with their lovely architecture and round pillars. You will see a
sustainable community lifestyle.
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